1.) Remove all salvageable items from your home, such as pots, pans, clothes,
cookware, wood furniture, etc. Rent a dumpster to dispose of the drywall,
doors, trim cabinets etc. Save hardware, fixtures or whatever you can salvage.
Check your local building codes at your cities court house.
2.) Depending how high the water level was inside your home and how long.
If the walls are full of mildew and mold you will need to remove all the drywall
or paneling on the walls and ceiling. Replace all wet or molded insulation.
If the water level was several inches to one foot deep.
The drywall and isolation will need to be replaced to the four foot level
which in where the drywall seam is. You can use a skill saw if you only cut
5/8 " deep or a utility knife.
3.) You will need to bleach all the wood , walls ceiling, attic, crawl space, tar paper
and floors using a paint sprayer or bug sprayer, Use proper gloves, eye ware,
clothing and respirator mask found at Grangers. You will need to use plenty of
full strength beach till all surfaces are soaked. Open all the windows for
ventilation. If its freezing outside you can rent a dehumidifier once your done.
Make sure the power to the house is off prior to bleaching.
Let the wood dry out until the moisture level is below 10% before drywall
or paneling. By the time you get the wiring, plumbing , a/c and heating
repaired it will be safe to cover it up with insulation and drywall.
4.)If the water level reached any electrical plugs or switches they will need to be
replaced. The wiring needs to inspected for any signs of corrosion at the
connections to these plugs and switches. Cut off damaged portion of wire that is
exposed so to have enough wire to install the new plugs or switches.
Wiring will need to be replaced if it was submerged in water.
5.)The air ducts, furnace, duct boxes and grills will need to be replaced or cleaned if
the are metal
6.))Turn the water on the house to make sure there are no pipe or drain leaks.
7. Once all your mechanical are in place you are ready to drywall after any
mechanicals pass inspection that need inspection.
8.) 5/8' Drywall installation ceiling. Drywall needs to be installed on the ceiling first.
Start in a corner with your drywall running across the joist, not paralel
to the joist.
It is best to tack the corners with drywall nails, then use a screw gun or
drill to install drywall screws 8" apart.
You can use a 2 x 4 with a 6" block nailed to the top to use as props to hold
the drywall in place so you can install all the tack nails in the corners
followed by the drywall screws. Drywall screws do the best job for installing
drywall without breaking the drywalls inner layer.
Stagger your drywall sheets so each sheet of drywall ends in a different place.
1/2" Drywall installation walls. The first sheet of drywall needs to be installed
1/2" off the floor running across the wall studs from left to right.
Stagger the drywall joints so the drywall joint do not run from ceiling to floor.
Tack the corners of the drywall with nails filling in with drywall screws 8"
apart. To mark the electrical boxes simply put some caulking around the
edge of the box and push the drywall against the box leaving an outline
of where you need to cut the drywall for the drywall to fit around the box.
You can use a rubber mallet tapping the drywall to leave an impression on
the drywall from the box outline as an alternative.
9.) Tape and floating of the drywall seams. There are two types of drywall tape,
paper tape and fiberglass netting tape.
To prepare the drywall mud for application you can use a drill with a beater
attachment to whip the drywall mud. The trade secrete is to add ivory liquid
to the drywall mud until it whips into a creamy foam that is easy to apply
and eliminates most of the sanding.
Apply a thin layer of drywall mud to the drywall seams followed by a layer of
drywall tape that is applied and pressed into place with a 6' drywall knife.
Skim over screw and nail hole and let dry for a day or until the drywall
mud is completely dry followed by 2 skim coats. Allow the drywall mud to
completely dry after each application.
10.) Replace or repair your roof prior to demolition or during if the weather is dry.
11.) For door replacement look at our log posting for easy door replacement
for step by step instructions.
I have done this before with my own two hands and it is a lot of hard work but,
can be done by anyone that has the desire.
I have done this blog subject due to all the traffic to my blog about home repairs
from the folks in New Jersey and surrounding area's.
I would love to hear from some of you about any questions you may have
in regards to restoring your house to your home again. My advice if free
for the do it yourself folks. My name is Randy Hoover and you can call me at
713-628-4511. God bless and may the force be with you.